Rainbows and Belle Epoque in Brighton

By Donna Richardson

Brighton is a fun seaside town that offers a wealth of attractions to everyone who visits, combining Victorian charm with modernity in a sleek and stylish way. Visitors can walk along Brighton Pier or head up vertically into the sky for a birds eye view on the i360, Other ways to pass the time include shopping in the lanes, fish and chips by the beach, trendy restaurants, gastro pubs and nightclubs galore, Brighton is perfect for a short sojourn, whether you are a solo traveller, couple or a family and its great for the LGBQT sector too.

Dr. Richard Russell brought tourism to Brighton in the 18th Century. He claimed the water had healing properties. The railway connection to the capital attracted many tourists, and with the advent of tourism, there was a need for more accommodation to match the expectations of the genteel visitors.

Enter, Doubletree by Hilton Metropole Brighton. This is the most beautiful and elegant hotel in the seaside town, a stunning red-bricked accommodation that opened its doors in 1890 and epitomises Victorian elegance. Of course, there is another hotel, named The Grand, which claims to be the swankiest accommodation in town, and other five-star hotels, such as the Leonardo Royal. However, having visited them all, I rate this as the best hotel as I love all of its period features and the fact that you can count on its service as a Hilton.

DoubleTree by Hilton is right by the beach – so it has some stunning views.

Walk through the grand revolving entrance, and step inside to a decadent Art Deco world. I couldn’t help but notice the stunning chandelier and fresh flowers. Beyond this is a sweeping staircase leading up to the 340 rooms. The last time we visited the hotel, it was undergoing a rebrand, and now we were back to see the results of a multi-million pound makeover. At the time we got engaged, so it was a very special hotel for us to revisit. It didn’t disappoint, in fact, in some respects it was even better.’

Donna and her family recently visited Brighton and stayed at the DoubleTree Brighton Metropole where four years earlier they got engaged.

Warm welcome

As we checked in, we were given warm cookies as a welcome, and we had a little while until we could get our keys for our rooms, so we stored them and headed straight to the beach. It was great to stretch our legs after a long car journey. Fortunately, the weather was good, so we took our picnic basket onto the beach and had a snack to tide us over before our fish and chips.

The rooms

When we finally checked in, we made our way through the marvellous hotel. Since we had last been we could see great work had been done, the ornate hallways were superb. With wonderful coved and artexed walls and rich Hilton blue soft furnishings it exuded elegance. Last time, the halls were in the midst of renovation, so it was marvellous to see how incredibly detailed the renovation was.

We were also pleased with our room, and we were delighted that the Art Deco features extended beyond the hall and front-facing areas, from the stunning black and white chequered floors in the bathroom to the original tiles. We also had a balcony and a sea view.

Heritage is blended with modernity, as the rooms and suites feature a mix of modern design elements and Hilton blue accents in the furnishings.

We unpacked swiftly and were eager to take a splash in the swimming pool surrounded by ornate marble pillars, as well as a sauna and hot tub area. There is also a steam room and a fitness centre.

Dining

The hotel has two restaurants: the flagship Restaurant 1890, a grand space with high, coved ceilings and ornate plasterwork, which is ideal for an afternoon tea; indeed, one is planned for June 21 at 1 pm. Guests staying at the hotel have breakfast included in their stay, and this is where they dine. There’s a wide choice from Full English to continental, and the novelty of making your American pancake and allergies are covered with gluten-free and dairy-free options with unlimited tea and coffee, and juices.

As you sit in the grand old admiring the mesmerising sea views, you feel like you have stepped into the age of elegance. This is a place of grandeur which has enticed Sir Winston Churchill as a patron, who dined here on 2 October 1947.

For fine dining, look further than the Hilton Metropole’s very own Salt Room. In contrast to the tradition of the grand hotel, this British seafood restaurant champions the freshest shellfish and meat, which is cooked over charcoal, and tastes delicious as you drink in the fantastic sea views, sipping a cool glass of chardonnay, but be sure to leave room for pudding. The famous Taste of the Pier sharing plank is a feast for the senses and comes complete with raspberry doughnuts, chocolate pebbles and a 99’ ice cream.

The bar is a welcoming space for meetings or leisure; large groups can gather on the long tables, or get intimate in the cosy corners. Unwind in the hotel swimming pool, which is surrounded by ornate marble pillars and a sauna, a hot tub area, a steam room and a fitness centre.

Things to do in Brighton

Brighton is an iconic location known for its historical connection to the Mods, a British youth movement that emerged in the 1960s. The Mods had a distinct style: the men dressed in sharp suits and sported specific hairstyles, while the women also embraced fashionable looks. This was a time when fashion, rebellion, and music converged as teenagers pushed back against their traditional post-war parents, giving rise to a new wave of style and culture.

As Brighton has a historical connection to the influential youth movement, which travelled to the seaside town on weekends and fought on the beaches with the rockers, the arrival of a new exhibition has sparked great interest among visitors.

The exhibition is a great place to visit for the whole family, offering an insight into the fashion, music, and culture of the 1960s. Sponsored by Ben Sherman, one of the town’s most prominent designers, who is still a strong British fashion icon, it also showcases the influential designers who defined the Mod movement. Several showing designs range from sleek miniskirts and sharp suits to crisp button-down shirts, as well as some of the music memorabilia which defined the era, soul and Motown. It was an era of style, and it is captured so well. Anyone who loves fashion and history will love to visit. Their fashion defined an era, and many men and women today are still influenced by its style. John -my partner is a case in point, dressed head to toe in Ben Sherman and Lambretta – some of which we bought from Quadrophenia Alley and the new Ben Sherman shop in town.

Currently, the Brighton Royal Pavilion is hosting a colour exhibition, which is a fantastic way to explore the grand palace and learn about its history as well. From the outside, it looks like a replica of the Taj Mahal and was designed by architect John Nash for King George IV in the early 19th century, one of the UK’s most extraordinary historic sites – a fusion of Indian and Chinese-inspired architecture with lavish, unconventional interiors. It all reflects George IV’s flair for opulence and innovation.

A true Brighton landmark, its striking design fascinates visitors worldwide, making it a must-see destination for those drawn to its rich history, artistic grandeur, and unique cultural significance. A rainbow road leads inside. The Regency rooms have been enhanced with lighting, sound, and colour-themed objects. Inside the Banqueting Room, you’ll find multi-coloured fantasy food and jars of vivid pigment.

Visitors can see exclusive artist collaborations by British milliner Stephen Jones, a paper flower display that turns a floral carpet into 3D by Karen Hsu, and an exquisite Bird of Paradise created by Zack Mclaughlin, while the Great Kitchen is an interactive area of colourful play.

Every room is dedicated to colours and how they evoke meaning and mood, making it a fascinating day out for creatives.

As you walk out of the exhibition, a pink neon sign flashes: “Brighton is still very gay and full of balls, 1829.”

The exhibition runs from 19 October 2025 – book tickets at brightonmuseums.org.uk.

Visit: https://brightonmuseums.org.uk/colour-at-the-royal-pavilion/colour-events/

Other things to do

Brighton has long been a favourite of the LGBTQIA community. Brighton Pride takes place every year on Sunday, 3 August. Numerous events take place throughout the year. W

When it comes to attractions, the Upside Down House is a great place to explore, bringing street art to life.  

We also spotted a quaint little Fishing Museum on the beach, with old boats outside. It is a little treasure and we went inside to learn all about Brighton’s association with fishing, and it is free, but we made a donation.

Dinner in Donatello’s

We had dinner in Donatello’s in Brighton,

Getting there

Trains to Brighton go regularly from London St Pancras. You can also drive there. We took a new Toyota RAV4 for a spin there, testing its performance as a hybrid car. As the first 46 miles were covered, the 360-mile round journey became much more efficient.

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