By Donna Richardson
Carinthia is a fantastic choice for adventurous skiers seeking value and off-piste opportunities. This hidden gem in southern Austria, near the Eastern Alps and bordering Italy and Slovenia, offers stunning mountains, lakes, and beautiful slopes. Known locally as Kärnten, it features rugged terrain that remains a secret in the ski world, with ungroomed slopes served by 235 ski lifts, many of which were built in the 1950s and 1960s. However, there are also some luxury offerings available and some of the best spas in the country as Donna Richardson discovers.
Klagenfurt
The city is located on Lake Wörthersee, one of Europe’s largest and warmest Alpine lakes. It has a Mediterranean climate, which means pleasant summer days, sunny winters, colorful autumns, and mild springs. The city’s perfectly restored palaces, courtyards, and squares exude a Renaissance charm.
Carinthia is a winter wonderland where you can ski well into spring and experience the thrill of skiing in its purest form. From here, you can begin your journey into the mountains, embarking on a 70-mile drive, passing by lakes and pretty villages. Approximately one hour later, you arrive at the stunning resort of Innerkrems, where visitors can experience the thrill of ski touring and challenging freeride ski terrain.
The region features a unique dialect influenced by Southern Bavaria and South Slavic languages, making German challenging to understand. This is partly due to its proximity to Italy and Slovenia, as well as its historical ties; Carinthia was once part of the Holy Roman Empire, which included the Carinthian territories, until its dissolution in 1806. Following the First World War, the Austro-Hungarian Empire was dissolved, and Carinthia became a semi-autonomous state under Inner Austria after the Treaty of Neuberg. Western Carinthia was a significant gold mining area, particularly in Heiligenblut, and tourism began in the early 20th century, drawing hikers to its natural beauty. The skiing industry grew after the Second World War, and today, visitors can enjoy prime free-ride territory, ski touring, and 730 kilometres of slopes.
Innerkrems
Innerkrems is a ski resort located between 1,550 and 2,200 metres and it has limited lifts, offering a thrilling ski touring experience for those who want to avoid crowds. Instead of groomed slopes, it provides challenging freeride ski terrain, once you have climbed up the hill on skins and un-pisted areas, perfect for ski tourers, free-riders, and snowboarders. There are also well-groomed blue runs on the other side of the mountain for a more relaxed ski experience.
The Alm Resort Frühauf Innerkrems
The Alm-Resort Frühauf Innerkrems, owned by Christian and his two sons, is a stunning hotel offering a luxurious spa experience. It also has a kids’ club and a shop selling toys and ski equipment, making it perfect for families. Guests can help themselves to drinks throughout the day and a well-stocked buffet with delicious salads and sides. The raclette is a must-try, you can cook steak, fish, and cheese on it, washed down with local Carinthian white wine.
Those who do not want to ski can enjoy the incredible spa area, which has two pools including one overlooking the mountains as well as an infra-red area. Head out to the balcony in the late afternoon, and enjoy an incredible sunset and a mountain back drop.
Bad Kleinkirchheim
It is possible to combine this break with a stay at Bad Kleinkirchheim, also known as BKK, during Ski Weekends. To reach this resort you drive past the home of ski legend Franz Klammer. You’ll also pass as the beautifully serene Lake Millstat which on a clear day reflects the mountains. We reached our home for the next 24 hours, Kolmhof Hotel which is a luxury hotel with huge rooms and a double bed dressed in bright pillows folded in an Austrian style. Beside the bed is a rustic wooden table with two chairs. Guests will also find a TV and a large bathroom with a shower and the huge balcony commands stunning mountain views. What’s more, the hotel is ski in and ski out allowing guests to get straight onto the slopes.
Unlike Innerkrems, BKK has 24 lift and cable car facilities, linking the ski area. It is a very affordable ski area with the ‘Family Euro’ ticket, children up to 12 years old can ski for just a euro a day. Taking the chairlift up to the top of the mountain, you can start with a challenging red run and stop for lunch at Maibrunnhüt. The portions are incredibly generous, and the food is super tasty. Schnitzel is a must-try and pairs perfectly with Austrian beer. As is the case, all over the country, the portions are incredibly generous and the food is super tasty. I chose a lunch of schnitzel which arrived on a huge bed of chips, and enjoyed an Austrian beer.
I repeatedly found myself tumbling headfirst. However, I was able to make a great emergency stop. We changed course and attempted more blue runs and mountain trails. What is great about BKK is that you don’t have to be a great skier, one can glide down without much ability but it is also incredible terrain for expert skiers.
My confidence returned as we skied down some more blue runs and trails. Eventually, we navigated reds safely before stopping at a mountain hut for a beer with the rest of the group. The libations gave me the courage to ski the final descent into the BKK valley. Although our group was made up of different abilities, I was by far the weakest link so having the help of instructors was crucial in getting down the mountain. Thankfully we all met up at a mountain huts for a beer. Here the apres ski is more of a hot Aperol rather than champagne.
During the final part of the descent, I got to know our mountain guide Andreas Schabard, whose patient and gentle instruction helped me get down safely and quickly. I felt very confident under his instruction and his family have been farmers in the area for 300 years and they own a large part of the top of the mountain. Andreas was very calm and patient with me which allayed my anxiety and helped me get down the final section of the mountain into BKK after complete panic stations set in. Despite a shaky start, I felt like I had achieved so much by the end of the day, and one of the best ways to celebrate the days wins is to relax in the superb spa with an outdoor pool and a jacuzzi as well as several relaxation areas which are family-friendly.
Trattlers Einkehr
Trattlers Einkehr restaurant is where Franz Klammer enjoyed his 70th birthday. His gold jacket hangs up on the wall with a signed poster from the film. Carinthia is authentic and a place where you’ll be warmly welcomed. All the staff are dressed in traditional costumes and can enjoy generous portions of local food. I chose the superb Chaud fish, a type of trout native to the lakes surrounding the resort to locally sourced vegetables.
The ethos here is s stainable and quality food from farm to table. They are champions of slow food, even winning some awards. We drank local wine and a spirit called KGB, made by a local ski athlete rather than a spy.
Großglockner and Heiligenblut
We set off early the next morning over to the other side of the valley and towards the Großglockner, which means ‘great bell’. We were destined for Heiligenblut, a village which has access to slopes on the highest mountains of Carinthia reaching 3,000 metres. Being so high up, there is snow almost all year round, particularly on the glacier. Heilingenblut itself is an authentic gold digger village and while the mountain gold is long gone, you can still enjoy goldwashing in the streams. As you climb the hill towards the ski lifts, you can’t help but notice the Church of the Holy Blood which strikes a dramatic pose against the backdrop of the enigmatic peak. In the year 914, a Danish prince brought the ‘blood of Christ’ from Constantinople to the village, where it still lives today. The church spire reaches up to the heavens past the very top of southern Austria.
Winterlust on the mountain
From the lift, you can access the entire Großglockner/Heiligenblut ski region, which is great for the whole family, You can take children under 10 to ski with a “Snowman Ticket” costing just 9.5 Euros per day and access to a snowy winter wonderland full of rugged beauty which makes it unique from your typical Alps resorts.
When you reach the middle station, you have two options for skiing. Beginners and intermediates will love taking the ski train. This colourful collection of alpine carriages, painted in vintage colours, was built in 1987. As the snowflakes come down, this looks even prettier. This side of the mountain is popular with school groups, with some nice blue runs, while more experienced skiers will find a stimulating terrain on the Grossglockner side, where they can experience off-piste skiing in the powder.
The resort is very functional and practical, yet at the same time retains an old-school charm that is not often found in the Alps. And when it comes to accommodation, you get value for money and quality, plus the people are warm and friendly as we found when we stayed at the Hotel Kärntnerhof. It is run by two sisters who make guests feel very welcome. The sisters bought the property in 1999 with their mum and dad who ran it before them in the 1960s.
Their father was a mountain guide who took guests up Grossglockner 80 times during his career. The rooms are spacious and modern, with a widescreen TV, a bathroom, and a huge comfy bed. The hotel itself is a delightful example of turn-of-the-20th-century architecture, with antiques that trace the hotel’s history, from the wooden beams on the balcony to the old wardrobes, chests, and skiing memorabilia scattered throughout the hallways. This is the place to stay for those who want to experience true luxury and history. The front of the building is adorned with incredible artwork, and the outside features traditional beams of a charming rustic ski chalet hotel. I thoroughly enjoyed this experience, raising a glass of wine on the balcony overlooking the mountains while wearing my robe before taking a swim in the wonderful, round pool in the spa downstairs.
After some relaxation, I walked back up the hill to the shopping area and popped into a few bars to experience the après scene. Later, we were invited as guests of the Hotel Larchenhof for an aperitif. This hotel is frequented by Steve Allen, who makes the puppets for The Muppets. During one of his stays, he gifted a little guy called Germknodel to the hotel. We tried a local brew made from roots from a local tree, a truly potent concoction that enhanced our authentic experiences. The views were as astounding as the sunset. Back at the hotel, we had a fantastic dinner: pumpkin soup, followed by veal casserole, and a superb Tiramisu, served by Helga.
Overall, thanks to the patient instruction from the team and my ski buddy, I was delighted with the progress I made on my ski trip. I also had the opportunity to discover a whole new ski destination and thanks to the spas, I felt rejuvenated too.
Carinthia is a wonderful place to experience a part of Austria that remains untouched by tourism, where you can still enjoy skiing in its purest form. If that is something you are keen to do you might enjoy a Ski Weekend holiday to Carinthia. It is ideal to share with friends but is also recommended to families with older, more capable children who are into adventure. The Carinthian motto of relaxation and enjoying life is reflected in everything they do from skiing to the après. Choose Carinthia for the perfect short break for the adventure enthusiast, with the right mix of adrenaline and relaxation.
Fly with Ryanair to Klagenfurt. On the return home take the plane from Salzburg back to London Stansted, also with Ryanair.
Find out more about FlexiSki and Ski Weekends adventures at www.flexiski.com or www.skiweekends.com.
More about Carinthia here: www.visitcarinthia.at/carinthia-ski-resorts/grossglockner/-heiligenblut/
Getting there: It takes an hour and a half to fly to Carinthia with RyanAir, arriving in Klagenfurt.
www.kaernten.at/kaernten-skigebiete/bad-kleinkirchheim/
