Oh, the lure of the Caribbean. There are few places with such an evocative name. Think Caribbean and your mind can quickly lose itself to the white sands and crystal seas that are synonymous with the location. Add a hammock and a glass (or two) of white rum and it’s obvious why, in the middle of a drizzly British Summer, I jumped for joy when we were invited to visit Saint Lucia. One of the most unspoilt of the Caribbean islands, it’s the perfect destination for those wanting that elusive mix of a lush laidback lifestyle with a side order of party, party, party Carnival style, says Chris Denner.
My journey started via the good people at Virgin Atlantic who looked after me impeccably during the 9-hour flight. The wall of tropical heat that hit me as I stepped off the plane managed to reinvigorate my senses and it was with a real sense of excitement that I started the journey to my first port of call, the Cotton Bay Village on the north side of the island. The views were amazing; lush plantation, brightly painted houses and smiling, manically waving locals. The happy go lucky feeling of the journey was curtailed as the car started winding its way up the narrow country roads that snake northward through some seriously mountainous terrain to the Cotton Bay resort.
So, Vertigo sufferers should maybe avoid the window seat, but it’s not enough to put you off the private luxury Villa self-catering holiday resort that makes up the Cotton Bay Village. After checking into my beautiful three-storey townhouse, and a quick dip in my rooftop Jacuzzi where I could witness the breath taking panoramic views, it was time to sample the menu of the Beach Club bar and a pint (or four) of the local brew. The relaxing out of the way, I needed to limber up in preparation for the following few days’ Carnival festivities!
Next morning, the ominous rumble of thunder and the soft beat of warm rain on glossed leaves let me know we were in the middle of a tropical storm, but what can you do? Determined not to let a bit of rain dampen spirits, preparation for Carnival continued and I arrived, (admittedly less sun kissed than anticipated) yet surrounded by ecstatically happy people in the capital Castries, all getting ready for J’Ouvert – the start of Carnival itself. This amazing experience is where the revellers throw coloured powders, water or smearing paint at each other. The atmosphere was electric with everybody dancing and drinking by streetlight.
The afternoon brought the Carnival Pageant. With floats taking to the streets attracting thousands of revellers, the carnival was an explosion of colour and music, which was an eclectic mix of Caribbean genres such as soca, zouk, kompa, and reggae. I spent the evening bar hopping at Rodney Bay Village – a huge man-made lagoon with plenty of hotels and restaurants. You’ll always find something to do here; the nightlife is varied and compelling. I was mixing with the locals and (mainly American) tourists (but don’t let that put you off).
As the dawn broke, the carnival took on a more seductive vibe; these folk know how to get it awn with their dirty dancing. There’s more to it than a bit of bump and grind, however as Carnival originally took place just before Lent as a giant blow out before the Christian tradition of 40 days of fasting or penitence – makes our Pancake Day seem dull, donchathink? And here’s one for the fact fans: “Mardi Gras” translates as Fat Tuesday! Even though the date has changed (for tourist reasons) it’s clear from speaking to the hordes of locals that their festival means so much to them and is pretty much the most important event of the year.
Cotton Bay doesn’t only offer opportunities to night owls though, it boasts some of the best beaches in the world, as well as a backdrop of lush jungle to discover. I went off to explore by horseback and spent the next morning trekking around the north shores of the island. The beautiful coastline and the relaxing sway of riding on horseback was an incredible experience, although at one point my horse took to the water to swim with me on its back!
With Carnival colours still invading my eyes and hypnotic beats ringing in my ears it was time to recuperate and where better than at Saint Lucia’s newest resort, the Calabash Cove Resort and Spa at Vigie Cove – the second of my 3-centre trip. This boutique resort’s décor and subtle attention to detail have inspired me to new heights of interior decorating, so it was with plans of binning the bean bags and investing in teak that I retired to my beautifully finished suite with its awe inspiring views of the Caribbean Sea. As you can imagine, the soft lapping of the waves made for a wonderful night’s sleep.
After feasting on some fantastic locally-caught fish on the terrace with the sun illuminating the magnificent Caribbean Sea, it was soon time for my personal speedboat (I could really get used to all this luxury, darling) to take me to the incredible Sugar Beach (a Viceroy resort) nestled in the imposing Valley of the Pitons. I was welcomed to my luxury villa by my personal butler, who unpacked my luggage. The villa’s interior reflected traditional French Caribbean architecture and included such eccentric luxuries as a giant claw foot bath and my very own personal swing – hello sailor! I enjoyed a wonderful meal that night in the great hall, a beautifully finished room with a nod to the island’s old world colonial history.
After another restful night spent in the softest sheets known to man, what better way to start the day than with a spa experience at Jade Mountain, a resort designed by Architect owner Nick Troubetzkoy? The bold design – individual bridges leading to exceptional infinity pools – makes Jade Mountain one of the Caribbean’s most mesmerising and contemporary resort experiences. With the fourth wall of some suites entirely absent, Jade Mountain’s rooms are truly unique, and offer an almost perfect panoramic view of the Caribbean Sea. I must admit, I have never stayed at anywhere as luxurious as this and it’s an experience that should be on your ‘things to do before you die list’ – sheer indulgence and luxury comes at a cost, but the month’s living on beans on toast to pay for it will be more than worth it! Trust me.
Sitting overlooking the Caribbean Sea with the sun beating down on me I reflected on the two vastly different sides of Saint Lucia that I had seen. Whilst I enjoyed the more authentic styling of the North side of the island and the energy, colour and vibrancy of Carnival, the South side does offer more opportunities to explore the beauty of Saint Lucia with mountain biking, jungle trekking and snorkelling just some of the activities available. Couple this with amazing beaches to relax upon and stunning resorts to stay in and it’s easy to see why this is Paradise for most. And all for you dear reader – what a sacrifice!
Chris Denner flew with Virgin Atlantic from Gatwick and was a guest of Cotton Bay Village and Sugar Beach, touching down on the south side of the island.
