It’s never a good idea to check a text message when driving, it is in fact illegal and not something I would normally do, ahem. But as I glanced down at the vibrating iPhone on the passenger seat of the car and saw it contained details of my next writing trip, I was intrigued to say the least, especially as one word stood out like a sore thumb- Dalmatian. Pulling over at the side of the road, I decided this needed a further look and was relieved to discover I wasn’t spending a week in Doggie Day care but in Dubrovnik, capital of Croatia and one of the most southerly of the Dalmatian islands says Jon Fraser.
It was Lord Byron who first described Dubrovnik as “the jewel of the Adriatic” and over the last few years more and more holidaymakers have been spreading the word about this amazing city, reinforcing the view of Croatia as being THE next big destination.
Flights are now available direct from East Midlands Airport and starting at around £80. Dubrovnik airport is located a mere 20-minute drive outside of the town itself, and, like much of the area, newly built following the war which tore apart the former Yugoslavia -of which Croatia was part.
Reminders of the war are evident everywhere, not in terms of damage and devastation but in terms of renovation, regeneration and put simply, perfection. The region’s main source of income was tourism, and the bombed-out hotels, pillaged public buildings and fire damaged streets remaining after Dubrovnik was besieged by Serb Montenegrin forces was devastating. In a sign of true determination and character, the Croatian people came out of their doors, picked up their brooms, hammers and chisels and started to rebuild and restore. It’s a tribute to them that the only remnants to be seen of the war are the occasional bullet hole, high up in a stone wall or a slight change in the tone of the polished limestone floors that make up the pavements of the old town, (the originals having been smashed by shells from the mountains above).
Built as a walled, fortified city, once you cross the drawbridge and pass through the arch, (still guarded by traditionally dressed soldiers with staffs), you enter a beautiful bygone age of baroque buildings, outstanding monuments, monasteries, churches, and museums. Constructed with the same honey coloured limestone that lines the streets; Dubrovnik shimmers and glows in the midday sun. Its main square and street is a meeting place where a maze of narrow streets, stairways and passages transport you to architectural delight after delight. Every doorway, walkway and window is a photograph waiting to be taken.
It’s a delight to stumble through streets too narrow for cars and traffic but just perfect for the smart, fashionable people who inhabit the town and take coffee and cognac in one of the town’s many pavement cafés and bars. It’s a sign of the quality of produce and the high restaurant standards of Dubrovnik that the majority of tourists are French. You can eat exceedingly irregardless of budget and we’d always recommend drinking the local wine- it’s not exported and is delicious- make sure you stock up on a couple of bottles before you fly home!
Finding somewhere to stay in Dubrovnik is not a problem either, with a range of hotels close to the city or coast. There’s a wide range of styles and price bands available, whether you’re a fan of tucked away guest houses and boutique hotels or you enjoy the splendour of a big glossy hotel and spa. We stayed at the Excelsior, a large, well equipped hotel that was bombed in the war but which has been refurbished to an excellent standard. It provides a luxury spa, six restaurants and suites so luxurious they sure to bring out the green eyed monster in those with a standard room. A two-minute walk from the walled city and the beach, the Excelsior enjoys its own stretch of coastline and some amazing views across the water towards the island of Lokrum, a popular location for sun worshippers and oddly home to the largest number of peacocks I’ve ever seen.
If you’re a fan of letting it all hang out, this is also the place to go. Croatia has a large amount of nudist beaches and is popular amongst the naturist community. It’s not essential though and the beaches are always well signposted and screened so if you’re of a sensitive disposition, you won’t stumble upon them accidentally.
Boats to Lokrum and other sunbathing islands leave from the main harbour every hour and cost just 225 Kuna and only 37 Kuna for ages 5-18 (approx. £25 and £4.30) for a round trip so it’s excellent value. CLICK HERE for more details.
For those of you who’d rather sunbath without the island hopping, there are many beachside locations within easy reach of Dubrovnik. Hire a car or take one of the excellent and prompt bus services to Cavat, a cute harbour town with spectacular views of lush green hills to enjoy as you sunbathe on its many little beaches. There’s also the most amazing 1970’s style hotel here, which is very James Bond. Fully refurbished but cannily keeping the ultra cool 70’s vibe going with lime sofas and concrete geometric carvings, the 5-star Hotel Croatia is worthy of a visit for a couple of nights stay or even to pop in for a coffee dressed as Pussy Galore! CLICK HERE for more details.
Dubrovnik really does exceed all your expectations, the hotels are top notch, the food and wine excellent, the atmosphere chilled, sophisticated, and laid back. Whilst the walled city is not only extremely beautiful but incredibly special, it really does take your breath away. Add in some great beaches and keen pricing and it’s evident why this is THE holiday destination to explore and one that I will be re exploring very very soon.
Fact Box:
Flight to Dubrovnik take approx 2.5 hours and are available from East Midlands Airport from just £120 each way.
The National Currency is the Kuna, current exchange rate approx. 1 Kuna to 12p.
We stayed at Hotel Excelsior, Dubrovnik. Rooms start at around £200 per night.
