Drink in the beauty of the Scottish Highlands – a visit to Dornoch and Balblair Distillery

Scotland

By Donna Richardson

“Wherever I wander, wherever I rove, the hills of the Highlands forever I love,” mused the great poet Robert Burns. The Scottish Highlands are a place that captures the spirit of adventurous dreamers with its majestic and rugged beauty. The towering hills, lush greenery, and serene lochs enchant all who visit, while the welcoming locals make you feel like you belong. This enchanting region is also home to Balblair, a renowned luxury whisky brand.

Balblair is situated in Edderton, near the village of Dornoch. Since 1790, this distillery has maintained a hands-on approach to making its whisky from a remote hillside overlooking the Dornoch Firth in northern Scotland. Guests can stay at the Dornoch Station, located in the nearby town of Dornoch, which is also home to the Marine and Lawn Hotel. It is mere steps away from the Royal Dornoch golf course, one of the most revered links courses in the world, for a memorable round of golf overlooking the coast, with a path down to the wild and beautiful beach.

Highland luxury

The Royal Dornoch Station Hotel dates back to 1885 when it was first built as a family home for Robert Thomas Hamilton Bruce, a successful Scottish baker, flour merchant and art collector.  This home remained in the family until World War II, when it was converted into a war office. After the war, it was returned to the family, sold, and turned into the grand hotel it is today – Scotland’s most northerly luxury hotel.

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As guests enter the lobby, they are immediately drawn to a magnificent vase of fresh flowers standing at the focal point of a grand sweeping staircase. This adds a touch of elegance to the welcoming ambience. As guests check in with their golf caddies, a palpable sense of anticipation and excitement is in the air. Enjoy a wee dram to unwind and soak in the refined surroundings. The bar is tastefully adorned with classic tartan wallpaper and features a large pool table.

There are 89 rooms on several floors up a sweeping staircase. Guests will find a gorgeous bed heaped high with cushions, a velvet armchair and antique hardwood furniture. Many of the rooms have stunning views of the golf course. The en-suite bathrooms have Floris amenities– a brand with royal approval in the marble bathroom with brightly polished brass fittings. Some of the rooms look out over the golf course.

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Royal Dornoch Golf Club

Royal Dornoch Golf Club is a championship links golf course that overlooks the northern shore of the Dornoch Firth. Although there has been a golf club in this location since 1616, the formal club was established in 1877 after Old Tom Morris expanded the course from nine to 18 holes in 1886. Today, it is recognised as one of the finest golf courses in the world, holding royal assent. Tom Watson, Ben Crenshaw, and Jack Nicklaus all played here, and Tom Watson attests that he has played “none finer.”

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Whisky

Of course, our visit to The Highlands was to experience the journey of one of the most luxurious whiskies made in these parts. Our first stop was the Balblair Distillery, where we learned more about how this hallowed spirit is made and the secrets generations of master distillers have handed it down. The new Distillery Master is David Rogerson, who took over from John MacDonald, who was at the helm for over 18 years.

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David took us on a journey around the site, which has been standing there since 1790, making it one of the oldest distilleries in the Highlands—the entire process, from grain to liquid, and all the secrets of distilling. At the end, guests can sample some of their finest blends around a table. The whisky flight begins with a wee dram of 12-year-old whisky, then goes on to an 18-year-old and 21-year-old single malt blend, taking you on an exquisite journey. I’m not a whisky lover, but this was not to be missed, and I appreciated the aged versions and their subtle infusions.  

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Fine Dining

Links House is a 15-room hotel with stunning views across Glenshiel or the Dornoch Firth and over to the first tee at Royal Dornoch. This was originally a Free Church of Scotland Manse House, dating back to 1843. Each room is named after a Scottish salmon-fishing river. Guests can expect a comfortable stay with Hypnos mattresses and cosy interiors featuring notable artwork and beautiful antiques. 

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It is home to a fine-dining restaurant called Mara and private dining in Anteroom by the fire. At Links House, you’ll indulge in Scotland’s most Northernly fine dining establishment – an AA Rosette award-winning establishment that also was bestowed a Michelin star last year. Patrons are invited to an exquisite dining experience within the stunning Edwardian house.

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Oysters begin the culinary journey.

Passionate and skilled chefs meticulously craft each dish, starting with delicate pastries and an array of exquisite starters, including langoustine, oysters, and cured salmon, perfectly complemented by a crisp white wine and the famously smelly Minger cheese. 

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The culinary journey continues with the indulgent chateaubriand served in a rich wine jus alongside truffle-infused mash and tender braised leeks, accompanied by a full-bodied red wine. The flavoursome cranachan – a Scottish delicacy was enhanced by a luxurious dram of 25-year-old Balblair whisky to cap off the meal. We retired to the drawing room to swap tales into the small hours just as the officers would have done during World War II.

The wild beauty of Scotland: its beaches and clay shooting

The next day, the morning began with a walk along the beach. In this part of the world, the sand is so white, and the landscape is rugged and windswept. It was time for a hearty-cooked breakfast with a side of haggis to fuel up before a round of clay pigeon shooting. This is a cherished pastime in the northern reaches of Scotland, attracting enthusiasts from near and far. The Highland Shooting Centre, with its exceptional facilities and picturesque surroundings, offers an ideal setting for this exhilarating activity. 

Dressed in elegant Barbour attire, generously sponsored by Balblair, we felt perfectly shielded from the biting wind as we geared up for our shooting adventure. The atmosphere buzzed with anticipation, and excitement followed with every clay target released from the trap. It was exhilarating as I shattered one to smithereens, sending fragments flying through the crisp air. It was an unforgettable experience, blending the beauty of the outdoors with the adrenaline of the sport. It was hungry work and we finished off with lunch at Dornoch Station Hotel before bidding farewell to the hotel. Then, it was time to make our way back to Inverness Airport.

Lasting memories

It was a short but sweet journey to the Highlands, but Dornoch is where you can restore and revive your soul. The Highlands are full of friendly people who’ll drink with you, big open skies, and stunning, sweeping landscapes to spend time alone with your thoughts. Raise a small dram as this remarkable place etches into your memory and leaves you with a warm and fuzzy feeling.

About the writer

Donna Richardson is a travel writer who loves to travel and discover new adventures. She has been to 26 countries and counting. She loves good food, wine and cultural experiences and a hotel or destination with a story or history

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