By Donna Richardson
It was a journey of a lifetime, sailing around the volcanic belt of Italy and Sicily, mesmerised by the smoking volcanoes on the horizon as we sailed aboard the Star Clippers Star Flyer. We stopped off in Sicily to visit Mount Etna, one of the most active volcanoes in the world, before sailing around the majestic Stromboli.
Each morning I awoke to stunning sunrises over the Aeolian Islands and discovered new lands from the sulphuric islands to Sicily’s historic Messina and Taormina, to the charming Amalfi Coast, with stops in Capri and Ravello. Each stop truly captured the essence of “La Dolce Vita.” We also continued to Sorrento to visit the ancient ruins of Pompeii and the iconic Mount Vesuvius. Finally, we concluded our adventure in Civitavecchia, near Rome.
After flying to Bari, we had two days to explore the enchanting Puglia region before the ship set sail from the modern city of Bari to the ancient city of Matera, and then into the magical fairytale land of the Trulli in Alberobello. Finally, we embarked on a sustainable train journey across the country to meet the majestic clipper ship.
Owner Mikael Krafft was inspired by the tall clippers of the 19th Century and wanted to recreate them. For over 30 years, Monaco-based Star Clippers has provided authentic sailing experiences on its timeless vessels. Their fleet of three of the world’s largest and tallest sailing vessels takes passengers to intimate ports untouched by larger cruise ships while providing the unique atmosphere of a private yacht.
The Star Flyer
The moment guests step aboard the Star Flyer, they are whisked away into a luxurious realm filled with the charm of a bygone era. The ship’s stunning vintage dark wood complements its classic cream leather seats. As the bright white sails billow gracefully above, the gleaming brass accents shimmer in the light and reflect in the two swimming pools at either end of the vessel.
The category two cabins are cleverly situated within the restaurant, compact and functional, furnished with dark-stained furniture, historic photographs of clipper ships, and a large, immaculately dressed. There is also a very comfortable bed and a porthole.
Each room has a welcome fruit platter, cake, and a bottle of bubbly to enjoy while they settle into their new surroundings. As a writer, I appreciated the inclusion of a desk in my room. I happily wrote away as we sailed to each port or spent time on the deck, never taking my gaze off the horizon.
Sail Away
As the crew gracefully sailed away from Rome, they unfurled the magnificent sails, each one catching the gentle caress of the Mediterranean breeze. The air was filled with Vangelis’s stirring composition, “Conquest of Paradise.” As the sails billowed proudly against the darkening sky, their fabric shimmering in the golden light, guests found themselves moved to tears. It was a moment of pure magic, a perfect blend of nature, music, and the spirit of adventure, and with that, we left land and knew we would be sailing continuously for the next 36 hours. Then, as it got darker, the sails began to turn every colour of the rainbow as guests on the windy deck toasted the ship’s upcoming voyage.
Dinner
Guests sipped their Champagne while a talented pianist played melodic tunes. They left the deck and began to descend the grand staircase, adorned with rich carpets and ornate railings, leading them to the dining room nestled on the middle deck.
Each evening promises a culinary journey, featuring a meticulously crafted multi-course dining experience paired with exceptional wines. The tables are exquisitely laid out, so guests can gaze out of the porthole as they dine. On the way back to the lower deck bar, I met a couple who adopted me and made me feel very welcome before I joined my travelling companions.
On the first evening, our meal was accompanied by a refreshing Petit Chenin Blanc from Stellenbosch, its vibrant flavours filled with notes of sweet pineapple, succulent fresh melon, ripe pears, and luscious apricot.
It paired wonderfully with the seafood parcel in filo pastry, followed by asparagus cream soup and Chardonnay sorbet. The red snapper with grilled courgettes and wild garlic pesto was superb, and dessert featured the floating island with black cherries.
The dishes were prepared by Executive Chef Henry Andriansyah and served by attentive waiters. This established the standard for service throughout the entire voyage. Back in the cabin, sitting at their desk, I sat contemplating the evening’s events and imagining myself as one of the great explorers of days gone by. The romantic notion of being at sea armed with a notepad and pen fills one with ideas and is food for thought for dreamers. The cabins are comfortable, and the gentle sway of the ocean rocks guests to sleep.
The first day at sea
I awoke early and found a wide choice at breakfast, and found myself drawn towards the freshly cooked omelettes. I had found my sea legs, and generally, the first day at sea is a chance to get to know the Star Flyer and how she sails. Guests can take part in water sports or climb the mast as well as swim and sign up for excursions for when the ship docks at different ports.
Captain Dominique was delighted to share his experiences of sailing on a tall ship, just like our ancestors did. Originally from a small town south of Brussels, he has worked for Star Clippers for 25 years. I could have sat chatting with him for hours. He even allowed me to take a turn steering the ship.
Mornings can be spent sunbathing on deck and sipping pina colada cocktails if only to get the Dutch courage to climb the mast. The climb up is nerve-wracking, but the view from the top is incredible. The real challenge for those who fear heights is getting back down, but anyone can have a go with the support of guests and the crew.
The genuine people you meet aboard set the Star Clipper above any other cruise. Not only were my press trip companions great, but so were the like-minded guests. The evenings were incredibly social and included a fashion show, a white night, a pirate party, a disco, a volcano party and more, so I made friends quickly.
I met a Japanese couple who were on their honeymoon, some cool Austrians, and a wonderful couple from England with whom I am still in touch today. You can travel solo, as everyone is so friendly.
Dolphins, volcanoes and yoga
The Star Flyer had a yoga teacher, Melanie Camp of Artful Yoga, a former PanAm stewardess, on board. I was to experience my class on the first morning as the Star Flyer navigated the active Aeolian islands in the volcano belt between Italy and Sicily.
Up on the deck, the fiery red sky formed a wonderful backdrop to the silhouette of Stromboli, which showed off with a small plume of smoke. As the sun rose, dolphins arrived, and guests were encouraged to climb on the net and get up close with these graceful creatures.
Sailing around the coast, a mesmerising chain of islands appeared, each with its own volcano. This formed a spectacular backdrop to the yoga class. Melanie was so calm and friendly, and I soon became friends with her and her daughter. I learned Melanie came to yoga late in life after losing her husband. She now runs art and yoga retreats on the Star Clipper ships and worldwide, so guests searching for relaxation are in the right place.
Aeolian Islands
My favourite time of the morning was sunrise, when I would climb to the top deck and watch the dolphins spinning around. One morning, the mystical Aeolian Islands appeared. This chain of islands is among the top destinations in the world to witness volcanic activity. As we disembarked from the ship in Lipari, we could see several volcanoes smoking in the distance and soon some of us were going to set foot on a real live volcanic island.
Vulcano, which Roman soldiers once believed to be the entrance to the underworld, last erupted in 1888. We took a small boat past jagged rocks and ancient sites mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey to reach this remarkable place, any moment expecting the Sirens to appear.
Vulcano Island is still semi-active and has three volcanic peaks. A prehistoric volcano dating back to the dinosaurs is at the island’s centre. There are three high points of elevation: Monte Saraceno at 481 metres, Monte Aria at 500 metres, and Fossa di Vulcano at 386 metres. Gran Cratere is still active and dominates the northern part of the island, where strange formations and lava flows can be observed.
The strong sulphuric smell from this very active volcano is quite noticeable. If you don’t mind it, you can enjoy bathing in the volcanic mud baths. The climb to the top takes about an hour, and once you reach the summit, you can walk around the rim, which still features yellow deposits and tendrils of smoke.
After descending, you can relax on the volcanic sand and observe the fumaroles bubbling away. There are also plenty of cafés where you can enjoy a semi-frozen dessert similar to sorbet.
During the sail back, take in the stunning views of the west coast of Vulcano, including Vulcanello, Spiaggia di Ponente, Grotta del Cavallo, Faraglioni, and the island of Lipari itself.
Back on land, Lipari is a charming little place to explore. It is full of quaint streets, and one can spend lots of time getting lost in alleyways, browsing quaint little shops, and admiring pottery, shells, and volcanic jewellery.
All the streets have a Sicilian vibe, and you can spend hours getting lost as you climb into the hills. Back at the port, the restaurants along the coast serve Prosecco and Caponata. I met some friends and enjoyed the laid-back vibe of this island before heading back to the ship for the sail away.
Sicily bound
The next morning, the ship docked in Messina in Sicily, where I had the chance to visit the ancient city of Taormina and do some wine-tasting on the slopes of Mount Etna, one of the most active volcanoes in the world. As much as I was fascinated by Messina, Etna won hands down.
Messina, Taormina and Etna
As we alighted at Messina, we soon found ourselves being transported into the hills of the ancient Sicilian countryside. It felt like something out of The Godfather as we wound our way through the small Sicilian villages bound for our mountaintop destination. Fans of The White Lotus series two will recall that this is the hotel which appeared in the second series of the hit drama, and you can see Etna smoking in the distance.
As we wound our way through the ancient city, I was impressed by the Sicilian art, the pots meant for protection, and the lemons. We headed for the amphitheatre, which was mightily impressive, and even witnessed a spontaneous proposal. As we stopped off for a drink, we admired the beautiful scene below us from our clifftop vantage point and then meandered through the shops to get some souvenirs.
Arriving at Gambino, we enjoyed a glass of white wine overlooking the vineyard, and one can see the lava trails amongst the vines, making for the most spectacular scenery and the smoking top of Etna in the distance.
The wines from volcanic soil are rich in flavour, and the vines thrive in the fertile soil. As we sat down, our charmingly handsome host, Nico, explained that the food was paired perfectly with each wine. We tasted the first white wine, which paired perfectly with the cheese, and then progressed to a rosé. We followed this with two reds, which complemented the sausages and meat that were brought out. My dining companions just happened to come from another town in California, called Etna.
We ate and drank to our hearts’ content when we returned to the ship, and had some Champagne before we sailed away from the Sicilian coast. .
Volcano party
Tonight was White Night and a lively music quiz, which we won. Then came the highlight of the trip: sailing around an active Stromboli, waiting for an eruption. Known for being one of Italy’s most active volcanoes, Stromboli is a natural wonder that regularly awakens and spews fiery lava high into the night sky.
As the dazzling eruptions illuminated the darkness, the sails of our boat transformed into a vibrant tapestry of colours, resembling a rainbow dancing against a starry backdrop and the atmosphere was electrified as a disco took over the deck.
Amalfi Coast
The next day, we cruised into the Amalfi Coast. After a morning at leisure and a lunchtime deck party, with all sorts of food from a duck made of oranges, free-flowing champagne, and dancing waiters.
We had the opportunity to sail alongside the ship and photograph her in her full glory. It was an emotional experience to see her sails billowing in the wind, and to top it off, the sailing crew saluted us.
Embarking on a tall ship adventure offers a unique and sustainable way to explore the world’s breathtaking landscapes. Star Clippers stands at the forefront of eco-conscious travel, and it harnesses wind energy via its magnificent sails to propel itself across the open seas for an impressive 70 per cent of each voyage. This allows it to offset its carbon footprint while creating unforgettable memories for passengers.
As the gorgeous Amalfi coast came into sight, I took my champagne to the deck and made a toast to my incredible journey. I had long wished to visit this part of the world, and when we landed, there was the chance to visit Ravello, dubbed the city of music. Set in the commune of Salerno, it is elevated 1,200ft above the Tyrrhenian Sea, overlooking world-famous towns like Sorrento and Positano and iconic cliffside gardens.
As you travel up the windy roads, you’ll be fascinated by the views. Perched upon this enchanting mountaintop, you can walk in the footsteps of countless creatives and soak up the romance of this region. In 1222, St Francis is said to have passed through Ravello on his way to the remains of St Andrew in nearby Amalfi. It’s also where D. H Lawrence wrote Lady Chatterley’s Lover in 1927, and E. M. Forster penned his first novel. It has also captivated Hollywood stars like Humphrey Bogart and Greta Garbo, and it has been visited by America’s President Eisenhower and British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. This was to be my final stop, and as I stepped onto the island, I felt so glamorous and swept up by the romance of the journey.
Capri
The ship then sailed onwards into the Tyrrhenian Sea to the port of Sorrento, and here guests could choose whether to visit Capri or Ponza. Capri, a jet-setter’s paradise, was first discovered by the emperor Augustus in the early years of the Roman Empire. He built temples, villas, and gardens for his enjoyment. He set the trend for it to become a private haven for the rich and famous. Now, it is an icon of a luxury haven, having risen to fame with the arrival of the glamorous jet set during the fifties. It is a beautiful island which is synonymous with luxury.
Pompeii
The cultural and historical excursions fit in with the volcanic theme. The question, however, was whether to choose the lost city of Herculaneum or the enigmatic Pompeii. As I had longed to visit both, I planned to embark here, as it was back at Naples airport. Therefore, I contented myself with a photo of the mighty Vesuvius as we drove back to the airport from the Amalfi coast. What a way to complete my volcano-themed adventure.
Civitavecchia and Rome
The ship embarks and departs from Civitavecchia, the Port of Rome, so passengers can continue to the ancient city. As the trip concludes in Rome, you could consider extending your stay with a few days in the city and booking a tour guide like The Gladiator Guide Alexander Mariotti, who is renowned for his knowledge of the Eternal City and has even guided celebrities like Tom Cruise and Dustin Hoffman. This is a great way to end a remarkable journey on the magnificent Star Clipper, but I highly recommend this epic Amalfi and Sicily trip with the new Pulgia bolt-on.
Bari
Rewinding to before we joined this epic cruise, our journey actually started in Bari. We stayed at the Bventuno Hotel, which welcomed us with a pack of local produce upon our arrival. Arrriving late in the evening, we had a meal prepared downstairs and I had the opportunity to try the orecchiette, an ear-shaped pasta made with turnip tops – delicious.
The rooms are large and airy with spacious bathrooms, a shower and a big, comfy bed and I fell asleep shortly after my head hit the pillow. The next morning I woke early and could see a stunning swimming pool below me, so I went to explore my surroundings. It was a glorious sunny day and so I decided to stretch my legs and head to the coast as I am always drawn to the sea.
I carried on walking along the Lungomare Nazario Sauro, the longest promenade in Italy, stretching 1000 metres from the harbour to Parco per Cani. Terazze del Santa Lucia café is a good place to start the day with Italian coffee while watching the waves crash against the shore. Across the road are the ramparts of the Norman Swabian Castle, built by King Roger II.
This metropolis is home to 315,000 inhabitants. It splits into two districts – a modern centre where you can find Zara and all the leading shops, and in the old town, where you’ll find boutiques and souvenir shops as well as the Basilica of St Nicholas and the Cathedral of San Sabino. Here, you can get lost in the streets and order limoncello spritzers while people-watching. Osteria Le Arpie is a traditional restaurant that serves delicious seafood and Apulian wines, such as Primitivo, which is derived from the same grape as California Zinfandel. We also enjoyed Bianco Manto grown in the neighbouring Calabria region and the Moscato di Trani, which is naturally sweet and goes well with desserts.
Matera – an ancient city fit for a Bond movie
Beyond the coast lies centuries-old farmland and ancient villages. Matera, high on a rocky outcrop in the region of Basilicata, is the world’s third-oldest inhabited city, dating back to prehistoric times. Cave-dwelling troglodytes once inhabited the intricate network of caves in the Sassi area, lending the place a feeling reminiscent of Bethlehem. The buildings here are made of chalky stone, dredged from the seabed, and span millennia, making it feel like a step back in time. One notable site is the rocky church of St. Lucia alle Malve, which features 13th-century frescoes inside.
Our tour guide, Francesco from Apulia Escapes, bore a striking resemblance to Freddie Mercury and was incredibly knowledgeable about the area. As we wound our way through the ancient streets, the captivating scenery sparked our imaginations. A highlight of the trip was discovering that this city served as the backdrop for the last James Bond film, “No Time to Die.” Daniel Craig spent several weeks filming stunts here, including explosive scenes set in the mountains. I was mesmerised by this enchanting city that blends the old and the new so seamlessly.
During the glamorous 1950s when the Italian coast was experiencing ‘La Dolce Vita’ stars flocked to the Amalfi Coast. At that time, Matera’s residents lived in biblical-like conditions, sharing homes with animals until a mass evacuation in 1952 due to poor living standards. Once considered the ‘shame of Italy’ for its primitiveness, Matera is now gaining appreciation for its beauty and significance, with tourism thriving in this unique part of the Puglian countryside.
After our immersive experience, we headed into the more modern section of town to try a delicious pizza washed down with Italian beer.
Alberobello
Puglia has a rich history influenced by various civilisations from the Greeks to the Romans. The Valle d’Itria, also known as the “Trulli Valley,” is home to Alberobello, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1996. This village features unique cylindrical houses with beehive roofs, built without mortar to avoid taxes. These charming houses have captured my imagination, just like they have captivated celebrities such as Madonna.. Today, many of these trulli have been restored and turned into holiday homes for tourists, offering a peaceful and authentic experience.
As we climbed into the hills, we entered a magical land filled with trulli. When we arrived, the town’s president invited us into his trulli house to sample some of his homemade red wine and biscuits as he shared stories about his childhood home. He explained that the area used to be a forest until peasants settled here with permission from the count of Conversano to farm the land.
These fascinating conical houses, built from limestone and dry walls, allowed residents to avoid taxes. The domed roofs feature decorative elements showcasing the architect’s style. Some trulli date back to the 14th century, and by the end of the 18th century, the population had grown to around 3,500. With approximately 50,000 trulli in the area, they are a common sight among the hills. Puglia has attracted many celebrities, including Madonna and the Beckham family, and it has captured my heart as well.
Puglian rail adventure to join the ship
Immersed in the art of slow travel, we took a scenic four-hour train from Bari to Rome and then another to Civitavecchia, the Port of Rome.
This was the perfect way to explore the southern Italian mainland before boarding the ship. Seated in first class, we enjoyed complimentary snacks, tea, and coffee, and even discovered a bar, which made the time go by quickly.
Overall, the Great Italian Escape Rail & Sail adventure features Italy’s beautiful destinations, utilising the country’s rail network and wind power for sailing, as well as the people we met along the way. It includes a two-night stay in Puglia with local experiences and a five-night sailing on board Star Flyer from Rome, visiting Lipari, Messina, and Amalfi. Incredibly, this 1631km journey across Italy by rail and sail was almost entirely emission-free, too. What are you waiting for? Book your adventure.
Fact Box
Bari Stay & Amalfi & Sicily Sail
Departs 4th September 2025 | 8-night package
2-nights in Bari | 6-nights aboard Star Flyer
Visiting: Civitavecchia, Port of Rome (Italy) |At Sea | Lipari, Aeolian Islands (Italy) | Stromboli sailing in area (Italy) | Messina, Sicily (Italy) | Amalfi (Italy) | Ponza, Pontine Islands (Italy) | Civitavecchia, Port of Rome (Italy)
Price includes return flights from London, 2-night stay at B21 Lifestyle Hotel, Bari, Alberobello & Matera excursion, First Class rail from Bari to Rome, 6-nights full board sailing, overseas transfers and port charges
From £2999pp
