Prague, the capital of Czech Republic, has gone from the back packers’ Best Kept Secret to the stag and hen capital of the old eastern block. Or so we’re led to believe. Armed with his trusty notebook, chewed biro and iPhone Hipstamatic, Jon Fraser decided to see if there was truth in the rumour that the stags had finally rutted off from the capital of the Kingdom of Bohemia…
People think I can be a little weird. Take Christmas last year, for example. I was presented with a dream gift: a vintage and (admittedly) sinister ventriloquist’s dummy (since called Uncle David, don’t ask). He now sits on his own antique armchair in the corner of the living room, unnerving the more sensitive visitors to my home. It’s fair to say my tastes are left of centre, shall we say. So, killing time on the (very quick: 1hr 40mins!) flight from East Midlands to Prague I was thrilled to discover, when leafing through the guidebook, a coach trip to a church made entirely from skulls and bones. Just my bag. And from that point forward, I knew that Prague and I were going to get on. It was a match made in Hell. *Sinister laugh*
Like most major European cities, Prague is built either side of a large river, the Vltava, and the name of Prague originates from the Czech word for ford or river crossing. Settlements here date back to the 9th Century AD with many of the city’s most spectacular architecture still standing from the 14th Century and reign of Charles IV and it’s this monarch that the main bridge connecting the two halves of the city is named after.
The Charles Bridge deserves more than a passing comment: not only is it probably the most important and easiest-to-find tourist landmark in the city, but with its myriad craft stalls, beatnik musicians, and gothic statues- it’s a must-see. And see it you will from your riverside room if you, like us, stay at the Hotel Leonardo (terrific location for sightseers).
Stroll across the Bridge to the North side and up the hill to the beautiful Prague Castle and gothic Saint Vitus Cathedral, which look menacingly over into the main old town on the opposite bank. Beware: it’s a steep walk, although well worth doing if you can, as the view is quite breath-taking (in both senses of the word).
If all that sounds like too much legwork, stay on the South side and follow the bustling crowds through winding streets filled with tiny theatres, marionette shops (they’re obsessed), restaurants and quirky coffee houses and bars. They invariably lead you towards the main Old Town square and the medieval Astronomical clock whose moving sculptures perform the ‘Walk of The Apostles’ with each hour chime performed by a statue of the grim reaper himself, pulling on the bell pull. Touristy but fabulous!
Wherever you go in Prague, skeletons, devils and witches abound – everything is slightly gothic and ‘dark’, but when mentioning this to one of the waiting staff at Café Café – an amazing and uber fashionable café bar and restaurant on the Rytirska – any sinister interpretations of this nightmare figures were dispelled; “No, no, the witches are all for good luck. We have them in our kitchens to keep the bad spirits out.” Ok. Why bad spirits would lurk in a kitchen I’m not sure, but rest assured there are none in Café Café’s and we’d highly recommend it for a light lunch or a midafternoon tea and strudel.
Speaking of food (and we always are as my other half is food-obsessed), Cuisine and the Czech Republic go surprisingly hand in hand with a vast selection of restaurants for all budgets and tastes. Goulash is a local favourite (and cheap), but if you like your fare slightly less dead, head over to the vegetarian/vegan café at the Globe Book Store on Pštrossova.
Back on the streets and with daylight dimming, the gothic architecture of the city comes into its own: with cobbled streets lit by dim gas lamps and brooding statues, it’s very Grimm fairytales but not in the least foreboding. Add to this the pools of light spilling from the doorways and dusty windows of the (many) small and quirky bars and you’ll be under its spell yet further. We were enchanted; that’s for sure.
The Czech Republic has a fine reputation for the quality of its beers, and you’ll find plenty to choose from in the city’s bars, some of which have their own micro-breweries within. Expect to pay under £1 for half a litre. If beer’s not your thing then why not try a little of ‘la fee verte’ or Absinthe, which is still made in the Czech Republic – perfect before a moonlit stroll amongst the streets, although it might make the statues come to life if you have too much!
As for nightlife, the city feels remarkably safe. We say amble confidently downside streets and you’ll always find somewhere to settle. We stumbled upon a remarkable bar whose walls were lined with stacks of Bakelite radios. Club life is equally off-beat. It’s this kind of quirk that really gives the city its incredible personality. If you’re feeling a little more commercial, the bars and casinos around the Wenceslas Square may well be more your thing with its touts and promises of drink deals and topless girls. Not our cups of Ceylon. Afterall, when you are in the capital of Bohemia why would you want to be anything other than Bohemian?
Fact box:
Flights are direct from East Midlands Airport to Prague Airport a couple times a week. Fares start from just £21.99 one way.
We stayed at the Hotel Leonardo – ideal location for exploring the old town and Charles Bridge. Rooms from just 82 euros, per night.
Prague’s Christmas markets run from 30th November to 6th January 2025.
Still feeling the aftereffects of the Absinthe? Why not try the Skylink bus – with regular pick ups/drop offs from Leicester, Nottingham, and Derby, it might just save your Driving Licence, so think ahead.
