Think Tenerife and the mind conjures up images of late night BBC reality shows about teenagers getting STD’s, sunburn and alcohol poisoning on the packed nightlife strips of resorts like Playa De Las Americas. Whilst we’re all partial to that every now and then, it is the relatively unspoilt northern half of the island that’s really worth discovering, as it’s an outdoor adventurist’s haven with an epic volcanic landscape and spectacular natural beauty, says Kevin Urquhart.
Only an hour’s transfer from the main airport of Tenerife (in the South), you quickly wave adios to the lager-loving Brits and find yourself in a land largely unchanged in millions of years; a landscape that’s evolved from the fires of Mount Teide, the island’s biggest live volcano and the third biggest in the world.
The higher the better is a good rule of thumb for not only your sun cream, but also to discover the real Tenerife. As you climb (and climb), the landscape of the Old Territory changes and that’s due to the climate – you can experience, literally, four seasons in one day in Northern Tenerife. From the sun-baked black sands of the desert plains, to the top of the Teide National Park, your ascension and altitude is marked not only in the change of temperature (you lose one degree Celsius for every 150metres), but also in the landscape: the Canarian Pine Forests indicate that you’re in the cloud belt, for example, and at an altitude of around 1800metres above sea level. Here the air is thin, moist and subject to the Trade Winds, but push onwards and upwards and you’ll be treated to a landscape that’s lunar-like, bleak and unforgiving, as you rise through the lava fields. Don’t be fooled by the blinding sunshine, however, as the average temperature at this altitude is freezing point and the wind-chill much colder still.
Take a tour bus if you can, as the guides are immensely passionate about Teide and you’ll learn a lot, plus with vertigo-inducing, winding roads, let someone else keep their experienced eyes on the road, as they take you to Teide’s cable car, which will lift you to an altitude of 3550 metres. Here, the panorama is quite breath-taking. Literally.
Under your own steam, you can rise to the very pinnacle of Teide – subject to you applying for a permit beforehand – but this is a 6-hour hike (each way) and not for the faint hearted. There is a mid-point refuge, for those looking to break up the climb and experience the most spectacular morning glory at the top of the world.
We opted for the slightly less strenuous (slightly being the operative word) circular trekking route taking in Parador, Majua, Sanatorio and part of the Siete Canadas before arriving at Parador Nacional del Teide for dinner in stunning surroundings with wonderful views of Mount Teide. It was from this base, post-dinner, that we were treated to a magical nighttime stargazing excursion with a guide that talked us through the solar system. Such is the clarity of this vantage point, it is widely regarded in the astrological world and even has its own space observatory just 5km away from Teide on the rim of a collapsed volcano.
Food and drink is something that features highly in the lives of the North Tenerifians. Direct descendants from the Aborigines, they are immensely proud to be both farmers and producers. With not a golden arch in sight, you are well advised to tarry a while at one of the scores of mountainside Guachinches. Effectively, these are pop-up restaurants that open at the end of November until June. Serving local food and local wine, you can almost taste the volcanic undercurrent. A typical two-course lunch is around 10 euros and a half-litre of wine just 3 euros. An alternative to the ramshackle-chic of the Guachinches is the renowned Bodegas Monje winery. The rich volcanic soil has helped them produce over 1,500 vines and, we can hand on heart say, some great tasting wines. Look out for their Wine&Sex events too.
From the heights of Teide in the west to the pre-historic depths of the Masca ravines, a central base is a good idea. North Tenerife’s quest to increase tourism is with strings; developments and hotels must be in keeping with the local architecture and permitted only to a certain height. This is a good thing, as it will always keep away the kiss-me-quick sightseers of the South. We stayed at the Casa Rural Casablanca. Family run, it is both charming and chaotic and a perfect place to set up camp.
No trip to Tenerife would be complete without visiting the mountainside village of Masca on the Northwest tip of the island. Not for the faint-hearted or unsure of foot, the Masca ravine is awe-inspiring and has, only recently, become a must-see destination thanks to the new road system. Plunging more than 5km in length and 520metres in height, the descent will test your wits as you squeeze, climb and crawl from top to bottom. Eloquently expressed by our Guide, “Sometimes it’s important for humans to feel small, next to nature”. And she was not wrong, as Masca, like northern Tenerife as a whole, dwarves egos into submission by its ragged and breathtaking natural beauty. And with not a Sombrero in sight, it really should be on your 2025 bucket list.
Tenerife Facts:
Tourist information:
For further information on Tenerife, please visit: www.webtenerifeuk.co.uk
Flights:
There are flights to Tenerife from Birmingham, East Midlands, Leeds Bradford, London Gatwick, London Luton and Manchester airports with fares, including taxes, starting from £58.99 one way (£99.99 return).
Accommodation:
Rural CasaBlanca has doubles from £50 per room, per night, based on two sharing on a bed and breakfast basis. www.hotelruralcasablanca.es
Activities:
Teno Activo and El Cardon run kayaking and walking adventures including the Masca Gorge: www.tenoactivo.com / www.elcardon.com
Price for a guided tour of Masca including the boat journey with Teno Activo: £32 per person.
Price for the guided El Cardon nature experience: £30 per person.
Guided tour around Mount Teide with Gaiatour – www.gaiatours.es
Group of 15 people, from £30per person (cost of cable car not included).
Stargazing with Teideastro £120 for a group of six people – www.teideastro.com
Guided tour of Bodegas Monje including the price for lunch: £20 for one person and £40 for two people (drinks included).
Discover one of the world’s largest lava tubes, Cueva del Viento: £12 per adult www.cuevadelviento.net
